The roof of Vietnam
kilometers of border with China, spectacular Ha Giang is made up of
imposing mountains split by valleys, rivers and streams and rising to
2,419 meters above sea level at the summit of Tay Con Linh.
In its ancient forests live tigers, scaly anteaters, peacocks, pheasants and thousands of medicinal herbs.
of the best places to see is the rocky plateau of Dong Van, which
covers 575 square kilometers and varies in height between 1,000 and
1,600 meters above sea level.
Famous Quan Ba couple mountain reflects the female’s curves (PHOTOS BY LEON)
A corner of the old town of Dong Van in Ha Giang Province
At the entrance to Dong Van Market
Making gold teeth is a traditional custom of the ethic people in the northernmost province of Ha Giang
can be reached from the provincial center, also called Ha Giang, along
a bumpy 160-km road that hugs the mountain side for much of the way.
on the plateau is the old town of Dong Van, famous both for its old
houses and the cross-cultural traditions of the Vietnamese majority and
the Tay, Mong and Chinese minorities that inhabit the region.
commune of Khau Vai in Dong Van’s Meo Vac District is the location of a
love market for young couples on the twenty-seventh of the third lunar
dating markets are popular among the north’s ethnic youth, the most
famous being the one in Sapa in Lai Cai Province to the immediate west
of Ha Giang.
An old town
Van has some 40 antique houses, with a 200-year old house that has
belonged to the Luong family for generations topping the list .
Huy Ngo says the original house was built between 1810 and 1820 and has
since been rebuilt or repaired several times, but the flagstones, tiled
courtyard and two stone-pillar supports have withstood the ravages of
time since the house was new.
In 1923, a large fire razed Dong Van so the French colonialists decided to rebuild it almost from scratch.
then until 1940, local builders and workmen from Sichuan Province,
China were hired to create a new town featuring both Vietnamese and
architectural homogeneity gave Dong Van an aesthetically pleasing look
since most of the houses were made of the same types of wood, stone and
to eighty-two-year-old Pham Van Duc, the town’s residents come from
different ethnic groups and stick to their own traditions.
example, the Vietnamese celebrate the new year on the first day of the
first lunar month while the Mong people spend the whole month observing
the change,” says Duc.
April 2006, a cultural event called Dem hoi pho co (Old town’s festival
night) with lots of traditional food and music has been held in Dong
Van from the thirteenth to fifteenth day of every lunar month.
seem to like it, attending in increasing numbers from month to month,
especially on the full moon night when red lanterns illuminate the
front of every house in town.
Van Sung, chairman of the Dong Van Town People’s Committee, says “Dem
hoi pho co will feature handicraft displays, folk games, and a produce
and livestock market.”
few years ago, the idea of transforming Dong Van into an all-out
tourist town like Hoi An received a lot of attention and much support
from the locals.
the idea has stayed on paper as the owners of the old houses claim they
cannot afford to repair or rebuild them the way their forefathers had
done a hundred years before.
such owner is 82-year-old Luong Huy Dinh, who has been living alone in
his old house since his children got married and moved out.
houses in Dinh’s neighborhood are in poor shape, and less patient
owners who cannot afford to restore their homes have demolished them
and built houses of concrete, bricks and cement in their place.
In 2008, Ha Giang pocketed an impressive VND155.3 billion (US$8.62 million) from tourism, a rise of 115 percent on 2007.
The visitors last year included 4,316 Europeans and Americans, 45,129 Chinese and 138,646 Vietnamese citizens.
While the number of foreign tourists is growing, Vietnamese still make up nearly three-quarters of the visitors.
why Nguyen Hong Hai, deputy tourism director of Ha Giang, is optimistic
about visitor numbers staying high despite the global economic crisis.
says, “Ha Giang is seeking sustainable tourism development by
preserving its cultural identity and historic architecture,” and saying
no to more concrete houses and over-commercialization.
The province is also preparing an application to have UNESCO recognize the rocky highlands as a natural heritage site.
Reported by Kien Anh - Thanhnien nEws